Saturday, January 31, 2015
10 OFF Thirty Wooden Boats A Second Catalog of Boat Plans
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Tips Boat Insurance Coverage
Before we begin to give you additional information on this topic, take a moment to think about how much you already know.
Coverage of a watercraft can series from whole replacement of the vessel if ruined, to private liability coveringage, and everything in between. When deciding on what procedure is right for you, believe what your requests and risks are, and how greatly you are disposed to consume to shelter them.
stuffed coveringage boat insurance is the safest means for the boat landlord who wishes to indemnify his pricely acreage. With packed coveringage the boat landlord can opt to guarantee the price of replacing the vessel if it is wholely ruined. Coverage can also involve payment to both the boats configure, or engine. Coverage for demise or injure to private acreage while on the vessel may also be involved. Other selections can involve injury shelterion, retrieve or wreck deletion, demise of use reimbursement, towing prices, and even investigative military.
Liability insurance coverings you in the folder of accident responsibility. normally a boat landlord can select both boat liability, also known as payment insurance, which will covering only payment done by the vessel, or private liability, which will covering payment done by the boat landlord, regardless of where or how they transpire.
If you think you have learned a lot about this fascinating topic so far remember, we are only halfway through!
While liability insurance is commonly the slightest luxurious, it is important to recollect that it will only covering the price of payment/repairs to third parties. Your own acreage is not coveringed under liability insurance. In this way, even although liability insurance regularly appears to be the most inluxurious selection for the boat landlord, if the vessel were to be ruined, the price of replacement would far out weigh the savings on premiums.
As they say, knowledge equals power, so continue to read information on this topic until you feel you are adequately educated on the subject.
Design 1331 Egret
This typical S&S motorsailer was built by Abeking & Rasmussen of Germany. She was launched in 1958. She is constructed of wood with normal S&S specifications; white oak structure, double planking of mahogany and bronze fastenings.
Here are the plans.
Here are a few articles from various yachting magazines. Please double click for zoom.
Here are some designer comments regarding the design.
LOA 56-6"
LWL 47-0"
Beam 15-3"
Draft 4-7"
Displacement 60,200 lbs
Ballast 6,000 lbs (outside) 500 lbs (inside)
Sail Area 1,361 sq ft
Friday, January 30, 2015
Wooden Boat Show Mystic Seaport CT
Isla is one of the 20 NY32s that were built by Henry Nevins of City Island, New York in 1935-1936. This design was commissioned by the New York Yacht Club in 1935. She was restored by Peter Cassidy and his team at Buzzards Bay Yacht Services and is in perfect condition. The NY32 is a simple boat and I was pleased to see how closely the owner and restorers followed the original plans from our archives, which are in storage at the Mystic Seaport.
This is not a "gold plated" yacht but a nice sailing boat with tiller steering. In addition to doing a complete restoration a new wooden mast was built. You can read about this in Wooden Boat Magazine, issue #124 (May/June 2010).
In contrast to Isla, Skylark was docked alongside. This boat was designed the following year and was built by the Pendleton Yard of Wiscasset, Maine. By comparison this is a fancy boat with teak decks, multiple skylights and bright work aplenty. Skylark was restored by East Passage Boatwrights of Bristol, Rhode Island. These fine craftsmen had good experience restoring Sonny, an S&S design from 1935 (design number 94) for the same owner.
Like Sonny, Skylark is a near sister to Stormy Weather (design number 27) and each was an improvement upon the previous design.
The boat is currently for sale and the future owner should enjoy years of sailing (and racing) this fine example of a classic S&S yacht.
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Alaskan Aleut Diorama Kayaks Peabody Museum 2
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| The diorama shows a "typical late18th century Unangan (Aleut) settlement in the eastern Aleutian Islands... . Some Unangan village settlements were occupied continuously for over 4,000 years. The houses depicted here are rectangular, semi-subterranean, and are accessed through a hole in the roof. They were inhabited by a number of families which occupy separate areas along the sides and ends." The white object left of center is a seal or sea lion skin stretched on a frame. It is being prepared for use as part of the cover of a kayak. (The quotation is from the display card. Click any image to enlarge.) |
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| To the dioramas right of center, a man works on his overturned kayak, of a type typical of Kodiak Island and displaying the distinctive Aleut stern. His double-bladed paddle is much shorter than the Eastern Inuit paddle shown in the previous post, and the blades are broader. The function of the different colors of the two blades is, I presume, purely decorative. |
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| The man in the previous photo wears a paddling hat much like this one, collected in 1867 or 68. To quote the display card: "This hat is an effigy of some unknown creature. It is made of bent wood (probably spruce) and held together using baleen stitches. The wing ornaments are made of bone, and there are attachments of fur, feathers, and multicolored thread....The red flannel once held sea-lion whiskers." |
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| The kayak at the dioramas center shows a full complement of deck gear, including paddle, harpoon, possibly a throwing stick (i.e., atl atl) and what I believe are javelins on the aft deck. A bent-wood box is also seen. |
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| Kayaks are stored fairly low off the ground on wood supports. Unlike the Baffinland Inuit, the Kodiak Island Aleuts had no dogs from which they needed to protect the boats skin covers. |
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| Model of an Kodiak Island 3-hole kayak. The three-person baidarka came into use after the coming of Russian fur traders, who typically sat in the center cockpit and did not paddle. |
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| Model showing the frame of a three-hole kayak similar to the one above, displaying the distinctive bifurcated stem and vertical sternpost. The kayak is very roomy, suitable for carrying large cargoes of fur -- especially of the favored sea otter. |
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From the display card: "This adult parka, or kamleika, is fashioned from seal intestine sewn with caribou sinew. The parkas detail is elaborate, and it lacks a drawstring for kayaking, which suggests it may have been used for a special occasion. Elaborate parkas were used in dance ceremonies before launching kayaks for hunting trips." The small childs kamleika features details of hair of a type unspecified, and also lacks a drawstring. Because strips of intestine are so narrow, a great deal of sewing was required to produce garments of this type. If the kamleika was intended for kayaking, not show, that sewing must have required the most painstaking effort to ensure water-tightness. |
Thursday, January 29, 2015
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The Cruelest Lesson
Through my carefree years as an armchair builder, I enjoyed reading all the boat building books: Chapelle, Roselle, Buehler, Gardner, Pardey, McIntosh, and Atkin.
But reading aint doing, so as I started making sawdust, it gradually dawned on me that all of the traditional boat building books make the same assumption: that the reader is not a computer programmer or someone equally useless in a boat yard, but an experienced wood worker. Someone who is as comfortable sharpening chisels, as he is with chewing the fat with the boys down at the local sawmill.
Knowing even less about wood working than about boat building, my reading list started to include titles like Restoring, Tuning & Using Classic Woodworking Tools
, by Michael Dunbar, and Understanding Wood
, by R. Bruce Hoadley.At first, this diversion seemed innocent enough. Its only natural that an aspiring wooden boat builder would need to learn a bit about tools and wood. After all, what is a boat builder except a fellow with tools, wood, and way too much free time?
But its a slippery slope. Let me give you an example.
This week, as I started my quest to find the wood to build Cabin Boy, I visited two of the closest lumber yards on my list.
Suburban Mills in Huntington Station had a smallish collection of hardwoods in a shed behind the office. One of the guys was very helpful and pulled out various bits of White Oak for my inspection, but he didnt have anything big enough for my keelson, which was the main thing I was looking for.
On the other hand, Roberts Plywood in Deer Park, had enormous slabs of air dried White Oak stashed in a corner of their warehouse. These were 9 or 10 foot long slabs of oak, sawn right through the tree, about 2 inches thick, with bark on both sides. The one that seemed best for my use looked like it weighed about a thousand pounds. Or at least a few hundred.
Whereas I was looking for the equivalent of a nice bit of steak wrapped in plastic, this was an enormous side of beef. Yes, my 5/8" x 5" x 8 keelson was hidden somewhere inside that slab of oak, but how to get it out?
Luckily I was driving Helenas tiny Honda Fit, which would have been crushed like a bug if I lowered that massive monster onto its roof, so I had a good excuse to retreat and think things over.
For help, I turned to one of my favorite wood working groups, the Old Tools forum on the Web. The galoots on that list patiently explained to me that wood workers turn large chunks of wood into smaller chunks using two techniques:
"Riving" is splitting wood down its grain. I could use this technique to split the slab from end to end into smaller slabs, that would still be 2" thick.
"Resawing" is sawing wood, particularly to turn one thick plank into two or more thinner planks.
One of the galoots on the Old Tools forum is the author of this weeks "Blog of the Week", Bob Easton. Bob pointed me to a fine tutorial that he wrote on Resawing Long Lumber. You should definitely check it out, but in a nutshell, he showed how I could turn that huge slab of oak into any number of smaller parts for Cabin Boy.
In fact, I could probably get all the oak I needed out of that slab, and still have half left over. Since my dingy fund is perpetually short of cash, this was an attractive proposition.
However -- and now we finally come to the nub of this blog post -- to make use of this resawing technique, Id first need to build a frame saw, which meant buying an old ripsaw, cutting a blade off the saw, removing all the teeth and then recutting and sharpening a new set of teeth, and then mounting this new blade into a frame.
Then Id need some way to hold the board steady while I sawed it. Bob has some neat stools that are perfect for this, that I could build.
Then Id need to practice, because resawing this way depends on the woodworkers skill, not mechanical guides, for accuracy. I refer you to Bobs tutorial for complete details.
Since anyone interested in traditional boat building is also likely to be attracted to traditional wood working tools and methods, I must say that I was pretty hot on this idea, and still am!
But as I was explaining this little detour to Helena, with much excitement and sketching, she reminded me of my goal of launching Cabin Boy in the spring. Did I really have time for this?
Of course, the answer was no. And here is the nub: both boat building and wood working require learning many interesting skills. Some of which, like rigging, sail making, and the milling of lumber, are big enough to be a profession in themselves.
It is extremely tempting for an enthusiast like myself to get lost on one of these detours. They are so very, very interesting.
But if the newbie boat builder is ever to finish his boat in a reasonable amount of time, he must restrain himself as much as possible. He must dip his toe into each of these oceans of knowledge, learning just what he must before turning to the next task, rather than plunging in head first.
And this, dear reader, is the cruelest boat building lesson Ive learned so far.
Next Episode: Occams Razor
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Blog of the Week: Bob Easton -- http://www.bob-easton.com/blog/
Bob is both an experienced boat builder and wood worker, and he loves to share his knowledge with newbies like me. His tutorials, frankly, are mind blowers, and Id give anything for his work bench. A fantastic resource and the kind of guy Id like to meet some day. Check it out.
Video of the week: Building the Seabright Skiff
This is a professionally produced video about the making of the traditonal Seabright Skiff by a very experienced boat builder in New Jersey. He makes it look so easy!
Thanks for your interest!
-- John
Wednesday, January 28, 2015
Boat Plans to get Homemade Jon Boats along with DIY Wooden Boats Outdoors Boating
Normally aquiring a vessel is tricky due to the huge prices of purchasing it and its maintenance. However, with selfmade Jon personal watercraft Plans and Boat Kits you could acquire online for a little price, your current dreams might be attainable. Not only will be the information fairly simple to use, but you will surely have the complete technology assistance group obtainable to help you at exactly the same time. Its fast, simple, easy, as well as inexpensive in order to make.
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In revenge on the efficiency within their design, that Dory may be considered a stable, stable and also very trusted boat. You may often choose to create your current Dory Boat in the classic way with the use of Oars seeing that a tool regarding turning the idea or get a modern feel plus make the most of a great engine.
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Oars and Oarmaking Different Strokes for Different Folks
Oars are a delight to make and we are trying to make something new for the market. A prototype for a Carbon Fiber blade-Spruce oar has been completed for a customer here in Portland to be use for his new sculling boat, an Annapolis Wherry, being built by him from a Chesapeake Light Craft kit.
The main prototype effort here were the blades, an infused laminate of carbon fiber with a light core material in the middle.
The core adds stiffness with negligible additional weight. Infusion is incredibly tricky to get right and much time was spent in making it work to make a perfect blade.
The looms are Sitka Spruce for these oars (and can be done in native Northern White Spruce) and they are specially designed such that they counterbalance perfectly with the carbon blades. The blades will lay on the top of the water and without any pressure from the hands.
This balance means less fatigue for the rower, a better feel, and greater speed because the rowers kinetic energy is not wasted in moving a blade-heavy oar forward and backwards as the blade exits at the release and enters at the catch. Another design element to Clints oars is in their flexibility. Oars should flex a little, especially in fixed seat boat, but also in sliding seat boats (the amount will differ depending on the rower). The faster the boat goes and the faster the rower wants to go, the stiffer they may want their oar to be made. But for recreational sculling and pleasure rowing in fixed seat boats, you want an oar with an amount of flexibility. It means less fatigue, a gentler stroke at the beginning and end, and better endurance for the rower. How much flex is very subjective and based on experience on the water as well as intuition. When Clint makes oars, youll often see him shaping the loom then taking it to the floor and springing it. Then the shaping continues based on the feedback from the wood.
Every board, each species, and different length oars will all feel different. What is right is based on our customers needs, rowing style, their goals, the waters and conditions the rower is in most of the time, and of course it depends on the boat itself.Youll notice that the oar blades are quite different between these two oars.
The blade area and the shape are key factors in how much "Slip" the oar has in the water. Slip is a term for how much grab the blade has on the water, how much water the blade holds. Thus, a large, wide blade slips less in the water and can potentially produce more drive for the boat. There are other factors of course. But for the sake of this post, looking at these two different oars, the spruce spoon blade oars are specifically made for open water conditions where feathering is not completely necessary. The carbon blades will need to be feathered especially when the water is choppy. The blade area is also more outboard making these more efficient oars for flat water conditions or when there is a slight chop, for feathering. Other differences between these oars are in the oar leathers.
The carbon blade oars have a plastic sleeve that makes feathering easy. The all spruce oars have traditionally stitched leathers with a custom button that we produce on a lathe with nylon.
The split buttons are seized to the leathers with nylon twine and epoxy (and elbow grease). Another big difference between these oars are the upper looms. We laminated spanish cedar to the upper looms of the carbon blade oars to help counterweight the oars and make the looms a little more durable (and it looks snazzy!). The result is very nice and no lead counterweights were needed in the handle. The oars are sensationally light for 96" sculls.
I will update the post when I have a proper scale to take weights. The spruce spoons are counterweighted with 2lbs of lead (see lead insert sticking out of handle, boring hole for other insert).
The balance point for both oars is just below the leathers and the result is a very comfortable oar on the water that is effortless to bring through the stroke cycle, from recovery to catch, the blades have little perceptible weight to them. Careful varnishing follows construction. We use a fabulous product called Le Tonkinois, a linseed varnish that makes a durable finish that is very easy and pleasurable to maintain.
A parting shot shows what makes me as excited about this new kind of oar as much as the performance benefits it is the aesthetics that make them special. The contrast of Spruce wood and Carbon Fiber to me represents the yin and yang of oarmaking -- balance. We are trying to make rowing more fun with balanced, high-quality, beautiful oars made with passion.
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Design 2009 Salacia II
Around 1969, the boat to beat in Australian waters was Ragamuffin, the boat designed and built for Syd Fischer. She is design #1949 and we have discussed her before. In 1970 Arthur Byrne decided to challenge her dominance and asked us to design a similar boat. Byrne turned to Quilkey Brothers of Taren Point, New South Wales, Australia to build her, the same builder as Ragamuffin.
Salacia II was built using cold molded epoxy techniques. Her frames are of laminated Queensland Maple and planking of Oregon Pine. At the time she was declared the most expensive ocean racer ever built in Australia.
The design is similar to Ragamuffin, but she is wider, especially at her transom and has a shallower canoe body. She was designed to rate better under the I.O.R. Rule. She was designed for Admirals Cup competition and was a member of the 1971 Australian team alongside Ragamuffin and Koomooloo. The team finished second that year.
Heres her sail plan. I apologize that we dont have a scanned copy of her general arrangement handy.
LOA 48-6"
LWL 36-0"
Beam 13-0"
Draft 7-9"
Displacement 30,975 lbs
Ballast 16,000 lbs
Sail Area 1,068 sq ft
